Saturday, December 11, 2010

Proenza Schouler; Spring 2011

Whatever course of inspiration Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez follow, you can always count on these two young American designers to whip up something for the kids; or at least those chasing after the the charms of youth. In a fashion world where everyone seems to be designing for the mature, Proenza Schouler designs for themselves: the coolest hipsters this side of the Atlantic.

The 'Codes of Femininity' (whatever the contractual agreement may be ) was the inspiration this past season for the New York duo. But this femininity, the stuff of dreams for the The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test gang, is completely twisted.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Rodarte; Spring 2011


A Rodarte fashion show is soon becoming the ultimate fashion mind-fuck; after viewing their Spring 2011 show, my couture vocabulary seems to run rampant, my mind still trying to wrap around the originality displayed. The effortless romanticism that Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the super-sister duo behind Rodarte, bring to the New York fashion landscape is a breath of fresh air.

The space of their Spring 2011 show seems to reflect this contrast. The cold, industrial background conflicts with the wood paneling littering the floor, each motif fighting for dominance. However, as the first model glides into view the last thing your mind is thinking about is interior design. As Harry Nilsson's " Everybody's Talkin' " floats through the room, an immediate bo-hoism is felt, a starch contrast from last season where Rodarte drew inspiration from the tortuous lives of women living in Mexican border towns.

Where as the fabrics are unquestionably feminine, the over all construction of these glorified wood-nymph outfits seems much more masculine. Opposite fabrics are layered on top of each other, only being linked in their portions and romantic undertones. Skirts are cut in repletion patterns, one attendee dubbing a garment, " A car-wash skirt." Skirts are intertwined with a loose trouser, each still flowing with ease. A high-waist proportion is seen, giving an opposite effect Phoebe Philo gave in her heyday at Chloe. The high-waist pattern seen in this collection seems to not extenuate a women's figure, but instead, hides it.

While fashionistos like myself will pillage for underlying themes and overall motifs, the Mulleavey sister's seem to aim for a simpler esthetic; Rodarte seems to be one of the most interesting brands in New York, and the Mulleavey sisters the most talented of designers. Whereas the technicalities can be debated, the clothes produced are unquestionably, obviously beautiful.